Chilkoot Pass, Stawamus Chief

Chilkoot Pass was born from a previous trip by Mateo Antonelli and I in 2003. We climbed Yukon Gold from the ground up spending three days in total, camping on Astro Ledge. On the last day we aided a three tiered roof. This pitch was going to require more than we could muster on that trip so we top roped a line to the left (the last pitch of Temptation of St. Anthony by Chris Geisler and the eventual last pitch of Yukon Gold) and left the severely overhanging roofs for another adventure.

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Coming back during the summer of 2008. Paul Cordy and myself worked out a new variant to The Calling’s crux on pitch 4, a little easier at 5.12a. We then bolted and cleaned two new pitches from there to the top of the wall. The first pitch of Chilkoot Pass has a hard 5.11 slab start, down climbing from the anchor across a hanging slab to a small corner system that turns into a full fledge, slightly overhung thin hands crack at 5.11+. The top of this pitch reaches a HUGE hanging slab with a bomber #3 camalot crack shooting horizontally across it. And there it stands. The last pitch, overhanging the slab three times over with the most beautiful finger and hand crack shooting like a bolt of lightning to the summit. The pitch begins with vertical face climbing with bolts to the first main roof. From here you stuff perfect hands into the ceiling and swing out into space to grab a diving board like alcove recessed into the wall. Mantle this, clip another bolt to keep your rope free of the sharp rock and turn around again to face the rock. Underclinging gets you out the second roof. The wall below comes back and meets your feet at the lip. The nose pushes you out over 2000 feet of space while you reach around the changing corner from a left facing corner to a right. From here it is straight up with one last triangular roof about 20 feet above. Tight hands, smearing feet, the crack shoots laser like to the perfect mantle summit.

If you’re looking for a multipitch trad route that is continuously 5.11+ then this is it!

Alaska Highway – The Calling – Chilkoot Pass

Good luck and have fun!