Link Ups in Squamish and the Bugaboos
The increasing popularity
of linking multiple routes in a single push (as climbers
get better, the walls don't grow bigger) has created
a number of coveted first link-up, and first free link-up,
ascents for the world's best marathon climbers on the
most cherished alpine ranges and multi-pitch crags.
In August, Matt Maddaloni made two such record-breaking
ascents, in Squamish and the Bugaboos of British Columbia.
On August 11 with Paul Cordy following, Maddaloni led
thirty-seven pitches to tag three summits of Squamish's
Stawamus Chief, besting Sig Isaac's record-holding enchainment
from 1996. They warmed up on Seasoned in the Sun (5.10),
then climbed University Wall (5.12a) to the Roman Chimneys
(5.11a) to the first summit (610m) of the Chief. They
rode bikes to the base of Zodiac Wall and climbed up
The Northern Lights (5.12a), then descended on foot
and sped up Freeway (5.11c). They called their sixteen-and-a-half-hour
day the Triple Crown. Though it isn't the hardest link-up
in Squamish (Sonnie Trotter and Matt Seagal linked The
Grand Wall [5.13b], The Shadow [5.13b] and the Black
Dyke [5.13b] on August 7, 2006), it does mark one of
Squamish's longest. Maddaloni said that adding Angels
Crest, and therefore the Chief's fourth summit, to the
Triple Crown is possible. But "the Ultimate Link-Up,"
Maddaloni said, "would be climbing the Fortress
of Solitude into Angels Crest including the Triple Crown
and tagging all four summits with sustained hard climbing
to every summit."
Four days later on August 15, Maddaloni soloed fifty
pitches, linking five distinct peaks—the most
climbing enchained in a single push in Bugaboos history—with
difficulties up to 5.10.
Maddaloni left Applebee Campground at 4:30 a.m., hiked
up the moraine field, and arrived at the classic McTech
Arete (III 5.10a) at 5 a.m. He onsight soloed the route
by headlamp and made a quick jaunt up the northeast
buttress of Bubaboo Spire (IV 5.7), which he had soloed
one year before. A long traverse across the top of the
spire led him to the Kain Route, where he made two rappels
to bypass the gendarme and downclimbed the rest of the
route to the Upper Vowell Glacier, which he crossed.
At 8:30 a.m. he arrived at the base of Pigeon Spire's
West Ridge (II 5.4, with one section of 5.8). Maddaloni
climbed that route and returned to the Pigeon-Howser
Col, where he dropped into East Creek Campground to
access another well-traveled classic, the Beckey-Chouinard
Route (V 5.10a) on South Howser Tower. He worked through
the low 5.10 roof crux without any problems (Maddaloni
had soloed this route two years before; higher up, he
got off route into 5.11 terrain, which forced him to
french free on cams) and reached the big sandy ledge
at 12:15 p.m. The most insecure climbing of the day,
Maddaloni said, was onsighting the section that he missed
last time: "5.10 overhang with a flaring flake
with no secure jams, pasting between an arete and a
cornery fin. Then I had to get my feet really high and
throw behind my head to a hanging flake. It's a well-known
spot on the Beckey-Couinard."
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After the next 5.10 crux above the ledge, the first
extended pitch on the headwall, Maddaloni purposefully
ventured onto an exposed 5.10- face—with no opportunity
to traverse back into the standard crack—to avoid
dragging his pack through an offwidth section that had
infuriated him two years before. Having reached the
top with no water after the last crux, an exposed 5.10
traverse, Maddaloni said he felt "really tired
by that point. I felt like someone severely affected
by altitude." Nonetheless he began his rappels,
"sloppily": a twist in the rope (Maddaloni's
day job is a rigger) snagged the line, forcing him to
free solo in tennis shoes to the anchor and retrieve
it. Another rappel took forty-five minutes to complete;
a stuck knot was near impossible to retrieve. On his
last rappel of that tower, he punched through the lip
of the bergschrund below—"it soaked me to
the bone."
For the final leg of the day, Maddaloni navigated crevasses
on the Upper Vowell Glacier to reach the Pigeon-Howser
Col and then on to Snowpatch Spire at 5 p.m. Once at
its base he thought Surf's Up—his planned route
to onsight solo—looked steeper and more difficult
than the topo suggested. Instead he onsight soloed the
Kraus-McCarthy (IV 5.8+) on the west face, which appeared
to have a "totally soaked 5.8 roof crack crux but
luckily and to my surprise had hidden dry holds and
a vertical squeeze offwidth at the top, just to finish
off what little energy I had left." Rappelling
and down climbing safely brought him back to Applebee
Campground at 8 p.m., before dark.
Maddaloni protected himself at two points on his Bugaboos
link-up: on the last crux traverse of the Beckey-Chouinard,
where there are two fixed pitons, and in a shallow corner
on the Kraus-McCarthy (Maddaloni thinks this move to
be 5.10, despite the topo's grade of 5.8+). The only
help Maddaloni received on the route was some chalk
given to him unexpectedly at the base of Snowpatch.
From the campground, he brought food and two liters
of water, a rappel device, helmet, lightweight pullover,
lightweight crampons without frontpoints, small technical
ice ax, cord, 8.5mm 60-meter rope, 60-meter Amsteel
tech cord (to pull his rope on longer rappels, when
he single-rappelled the entire length of his rope),
rock shoes, tennis shoes, and some protection—a
set of nuts and two link cams—and wore harness,
in case he found himself in distress.
When asked what the approximate distance of his link-up
was, Maddaloni could not respond, except to say: "It's
a marathon in running more than anything else."
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ABOVE: Matt after the chicken wing dyno on the first
pitch of University Wall. Paul Cordy photo.
BELOW: Second pitch of U-Wall, 5.12 undercling and
knee / arm bars.
BELOW: Matt on the never ending crack. 7th pitch of
Northern Lights, "The Calling" pitch. 5.12a
when linked into the next roof pitch as Matt did on
both attempts. Paul Cordy photo.
BELOW: Matt free soloing on the 3000 ft high head wall
of the Becky / Chouinard route, South Howser Tower,
Bugaboos.
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